Saturday, February 19, 2011


Bagels are not new to me. I have made them before. Unfortunately, the results of my first batch were never worthy of sharing, an d I wanted to wait until I had a successful recipe.

To me, a good bagel is chewy, not dry and bready. My last attempt, while well-intentioned, might as well have been rolls with holes. They were not smooth and pretty on top like a bagel should be – they were lumpy and dull. When do the words ‘lumpy’ and ‘dull’ describe anything good?

See for yourself:

Not pretty.

I decided to give it a try again when I saw a new recipe that called for a sponge starter, instead of just starting out with regular bread dough. I let the sponge sit overnight, and then made the bagels the next morning. It was so fun to knead this dough because I could really feel the glutens activate and relax, and what started off as a shaggy dough turned soft and supple.

The last time I tried to make the holes in the bagels, I had the worst time keeping the edges even. Some spots would be really thick, and others would be super thin. I made a conscious effort this time around to avoid that problem and, for the most part, I succeeded.

When I boiled the bagels, I got a little worried because again they looked slightly lumpy after existing their water bath. I prepared myself for disappointment, but at least they only had to bake for 10 minutes before I could find out if the recipe worked.

In the oven, the slightly lumpy exterior magically vanished, and a smooth, slightly glossy surface emerged on the top of each bagel. After ten minutes, I pulled perfectly golden brown bagels out of the oven. They looked like bagels, but I still was holding out on a verdict until I got a taste of one.

This recipe was a winner. These bagels were heavenly. Slightly chewy, with a thin, soft, shiny exterior crust – I have had one pretty much every day since making them (they make great sandwiches!)

Next time I’m trying a cinnamon-raisin version – as requested by the hubby. I can’t wait to make these again!

Peter Reinhart’s Bagels

Adpated from The Bread Baker’s Apprentice - As written on Smitten Kitchen's Website
Makes 1 dozen bagels

Yield: 12 extremely large, 16 regularly large or 24 miniature bagels

1 teaspoon instant yeast
4 cups unbleached high-gluten or bread flour (see note below)
2 1/2 cups water, room temperature

1/2 teaspoon instant yeast
3 3/4 cups unbleached high-gluten or bread flour
2 3/4 teaspoons salt
2 teaspoons malt powder or 1 tablespoon dark or light malt syrup, honey, or brown sugar (see note below)

To Finish
1 tablespoon baking soda
Cornmeal or semolina flour for dusting

Day one: To make the sponge, stir the yeast into the flour in a 4-quart mixing bowl. Add the water, whisking or stirring only until it forms a smooth, sticky batter (like pancake batter). Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for approximately 2 hours, or until the mixture becomes very foamy and bubbly. It should swell to nearly double in size and collapse when the bowl is tapped on the countertop.

To make the dough, in the same mixing bowl (or in the bowl of an electric mixer), add the additional yeast to the sponge and stir. Then add 3 cups of the flour and all of the salt and malt. Stir (or mix on low speed with the dough hook) until the ingredients for a ball, slowly working in the remaining 3/4 cup flour to stiffen the dough.

Transfer the dough to the counter and knead for at least 10 minutes (or for 6 minutes by machine). The dough should be firm, stiffer than French bread dough, but still pliable and smooth. There should be no raw flour – all ingredients should be hydrated. The dough should pass the windowpane test and register 77 to 71 degrees F. If the dough seems to dry and rips, add a few drops of water and continue kneading. If the dough seems tacky or sticky, add more flour to achieve the stiffness required. The kneaded dough should feel satiny and pliable but not be tacky.

Immediately divide the dough into 4 1/2 ounce pieces for standard bagels, or smaller if desired. Form the pieces into rolls.

 Cover the rolls with a damp towel and allow them to rest for approximately 20 minutes.

Line 2 sheet pans with baking parchment and mist lightly with spray oil. Proceed with one of the following shaping methods:

Method 1: Poke a hole in a ball of bagel dough and gently rotate your thumb around the inside of the hole to widen it to approximately 2 1/2 inches in diameter (half of this for a mini-bagel). The dough should be as evenly stretched as possible (try to avoid thick and thin spots.)

Method 2: Roll out the dough into an 8-inch long rope. (This may require rolling part of the way and resting if the pieces are too elastic and snap back, in which case, allow them to rest for 3 minutes and then extend them again to bring to full length. Wrap the dough around the palm and back of your hand, between the thumb and forefinger, overlapping the ends by several inches. Press the overlapping ends on the counter with the palm of your hand, rocking back and forth to seal.

Place each of the shaped pieces 2 inches apart on the pans. Mist the bagels very lightly with the spray oil and slip each pan into a food-grade plastic bag, or cover loosely with plastic wrap. Let the pans sit at room temperature for about 20 minutes.

Check to see if the bagels are ready to be retarded in the refrigerator by using the “float test”. Fill a small bowl with cool or room-temperature water. The bagels are ready to be retarded when they float within 10 seconds of being dropped into the water. Take one bagel and test it. If it floats, immediately return the tester bagel to the pan, pat it dry, cover the pan, and place it in the refrigerator overnight (it can stay in the refrigerator for up to 2 days). If the bagel does not float. Return it to the pan and continue to proof the dough at room temperature, checking back every 10 to 20 minutes or so until a tester floats. The time needed to accomplish the float will vary, depending on the ambient temperature and the stiffness of the dough.

The following day (or when you are ready to bake the bagels), preheat the oven to 500 degrees F with the two racks set in the middle of the oven. Bring a large pot of water to a boil (the wider the pot the better), and add the baking soda (and optionally, a few tablespoons of barley syrup). Have a slotted spoon or skimmer nearby.

Remove the bagels from the refrigerator and gently drop them into the water, boiling only as many as comfortably fit (they should float within 10 seconds). After 1 minutes flip them over rand boil for another minute. If you like very chewy bagels, you can extend the boiling to 2 minutes per side. While the bagels are boiling, sprinkle the same parchment-lined sheet pans with cornmeal or semolina flour. (If you decide to replace the paper, be sure to spray the new paper lightly with spray oil to prevent the bagels from sticking to the surface.) If you want to top the bagels, do so as soon as they come out of the water. You can use any of the suggestions in the ingredients list or a combination.

When all the bagels have been boiled, place the pans on the 2 middle shelves in the oven. Bake for approximately 5 minutes, then rotate the pans, switching shelves and giving the pans a 180-degree rotation. (If you are baking only 1 pan, keep it on the center shelf but still rotate 180 degrees.) After the rotation, lower the oven setting to 450 degrees F and continue baking for about 5 minutes, or until the bagels turn light golden brown. You may bake them darker if you prefer.

Remove the pans from the oven and let the bagels cool on a rack for 15 minutes or longer before serving.


pup said...

This is great! I am so glad you shared!! I tried making bagels once and it was a complete flop!! They were very heavy.. and didn't toast very well (I work at an Architect firm and everyone joked that they were fire retardant)!! Glad to see this recipe worked for you!!

oneordinaryday said...

They look absolutely perfect. I love turkey sandwiches on sesame seed bagels. I'd eat them every day if I could. :)

Caroline said...

So glad I could share, Pup! I made that first batch a while ago but couldn't get myself to share a total flop. I had to redeem myself before letting everyone see it! These were delicious, though, and a pretty fool-proof recipe!

One Ordinary Day - my weakness is the classic NY bagels and lox. I would eat that all the time if I could!

Meg Luby said...

these look great! i am now living in DC but, i am from chicago originally and miss it like mad. glad to have found your blog!

Rick said...

They look good! It must be really hard to make those.

Caroline said...

Meaghan - I'm so glad you like the bagels - I actually did the opposite of you, moved from the Baltimore/DC area to Chicago! I find myself missing the Baltimore area more than I expected, but I adore Chicago - so much to see and do in such close proximity!

Rick - The bagels really weren't that difficult, and were worlds above the store-bought rolls-with-holes. If you are familiar with bread and yeast, these really aren't hard to make, just a bit of a time investment to let the sponge sit.

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